Showing posts with label Kaalan. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Kaalan. Show all posts

Tuesday, April 9, 2013

Black and White Wednesdays: Why you shouldn't be 'surprised' at fermented foods



Not just a " an eloquent protest against the homogenization of flavours and food now rolling like a great undifferentiated lawn across the globe..."

We often come across articles educating us lesser mortals on which food is good for us and why it is good for us. Most of them in the tone of a new discovery, of something we might have been too ignorant to know for our uninitiated, bad-eating-habit selves. After  one starts reading, one realizes that it is yet another 'American' / western discovery. One that many, 'looked-down-upon'  parts of the world take for fresh, normal, healthy, seasonal,  usually sustainable, locally sourced  food and eating habits. Since 'ancient times'.
Idli with a touch of seasoned Tomato and Onion Chutney
Of course, the implication here is that nobody should wrinkle up their noses on foods like Bread, Cheese, Beer, Wine, Chocolate, Coffee and Yogurt. These being gourmet foods that powerful nations and cultures have exalted to an elite status. Plus this food is so good that there is not even a tiny whiff of 'fermentation', and it is far  removed from the important word which is implied here. The very dirty one, 'rotten'. You  will and should however be pardoned for wrinkling your nose and sniffing at foods,  that are fermented and that do not belong to above seven categories and the cuisines they represent in the popular consciousness.

Mostly, food with an entirely different flavour profile, one which has  nourished very different cultures. What comes to your mind? 


Fresh batter poured into idli moulds and a batch of steamed idli's.
This goes to the Black and White Wednesdays # 78 originally created by The Well Seasoned Cook  and hosted this week by My Diverse Kitchen.

For me, it is the humble Idli, made from a ground paste of soaked rice  and black gram. In the hot, tropical, humid climate of the monsoons, our palate quickly adapted to fresh  food, fermented ground pastes steamed into nutritious vegetarian entrees, buttermilk and yogurt  whisked into easily digestible curries, chutneys and cooling summer drinks. It is  unsurprising then that,

We do not have to 'try to bring back' fermentation
We do not have to 'try to revive' an ancient tradition.

It is part of our living culture and tradition.
And it is alive.
And we are not afraid.
And no pun intended.

Plus,  we perhaps do not need a 'Guru' to teach us that!
Again, no pun intended.

In many ways, this reminds me of the  underlying humour regarding Kerala cuisine which touches on the traditional, Malayalee comfort food of sour, coconut-buttermilk chutneys like the Kaalan, Moru Curries and pulisseri's. The Kaalan would never go bad, it would only turn more sour. To balance out the sourness, one just added fresh coconut paste and vice-versa. This back and forth process would end  only when with the curry got over!

So  while experts foment and flog whatever is current and trendy, there are many food traditions and recipes that have  survived the onslaught of over processed, homogenized, frozen, left-over, cliched, fizz and foam! They could perhaps look at something like the Idli... to rise up and leaven, gently ripen to a perfect, tart, sourness and then  be steamed into something truly piquant. Effortlessly. It need not be contrived and unsavoury. The magic is alive. Just check.

Friday, August 20, 2010

Traditional Onam Delicacies: Kurukku Kaalan

Have posted  about this traditional Kaalan recipe previously. This is the recipe served for feasts and special occasions; it does not use any vegetables unlike other variations and is known as Kurukku Kaalan or Katti Kaalan/ thick Kaalan.

This will keep for a few days and is a perfect Friday-Cooking dish; it is also a made-ahead dish for the Onam feasts. This sour chutney usually accompanies rice. Happy to fall back on a routine of Rice, Kaalan and Manga Kari after a week's vacation of theme park food!

This will go to Melodie's Vegetarian Foodie Fridays  and the   Friday Food event hosted at Trends and Tips.

Ingredients
1 Cup grated coconut
1 cup sour buttermilk
2 finger hot green chilli peppers
1/4 tsp Cummin seeds
1 tsp fresh powdered black pepper
1/4 tsp turmeric powder
Salt
1 pinch of roasted and lightly crushed fenugreek seeds
For tempering
1 tbsp Coconut oil
1 tsp mustard seeds
2 dried red chillies
1 stem curry leaves

Method
Grind the grated coconut, cummin seeds, green chillies into a smooth paste with little water [ 2-3 tbsps of water].
Keep aside.
Heat a heavy bottomed pan with the buttermilk on medium high
As it starts boiling, add the turmeric powder,
After 7-10 minutes keep checking the buttermilk which will start reducing to a paste,
Add 1 tsp of black pepper powder and mix well,
Stir and mix well while it reduces so that it neither burns nor sticks to the bottom of the pan.
You will get about 5 and half tablespoons of the Kaalan Kurukku/paste from 1 Cup of Buttermilk. Scoop the paste from the pan and keep aside.

At this stage you have to check for the sourness of the paste; this would depend on the sourness of the buttermilk used.
[At this point you could refrigerate this paste]
Here I have added 2 tbsps of the reduced buttermilk paste/kurukku to the ground coconut paste in the same pan.
Cook on medium low heat for 2 minutes and take off the heat.
Heat 1 tbsp of coconut oil to a smoking point,
Temper mustard seeds, then broken red chillies and curry leaves,
Add a pinch of ground fenugreek seeds and pour immediately pour over the Kaalan.

*Note: The amount of paste would depend on the sourness of the buttermilk. This paste will stay in the refrigerator; keep in a clean dry air-tight container. It could also be frozen into 1-2 tsp cubes. It will increase in sourness with time.
Am updating this post and sending it to Back to Basics event, hosted at Served with Love,   and started by Jaya, at   Desi Soccer Mom.
Had been meaning to do this but somehow, mixed it up with another event,  and thought that the deadline was over...then realized that one still had time to submit.

Tuesday, April 13, 2010

Traditional Kaalan

Reduced Sour Buttermilk Paste/ Kaalan Kurukku


Valluvanadan Kaalan

Kaalan  or a sour, buttermilk based Coconut Chutney is served plain for traditional feasts in this region. Elephant yams, sweet and unripe plantains are other additions. The base is sour buttermilk; thick curd or yogurt is not used.  The reduced sour buttermilk paste is known as the kurukku. This cooked paste is added to a ground coconut-cummin-black pepper base and tempered with mustard, red chillies, fenugreek and curry leaves. It is neither boiled nor left on heat for long, after the addition of coconut paste. Thick curd or yogurt is never used and is considered harmful according to the tenets of Ayurveda.

Ingredients
1 Cup grated coconut
1 cup sour buttermilk
2 finger hot green chilli peppers
1/4 tsp Cummin seeds
1 tsp fresh powdered black pepper
1/4 tsp turmeric powder
Salt
1 pinch of roasted and lightly crushed fenugreek seeds

For tempering
1 tsp Coconut oil
1 tsp mustard seeds
2 red chillies
1 stem curry leaves

Method
Grind the grated coconut, cummin seeds, green chillies into a smooth paste with little water[ 2-3 tbsps of water].
Keep aside.

Heat a heavy bottomed pan with the buttermilk on medium high
As it starts boiling, add the turmeric powder, 
After 7-10 minutes keep checking the buttermilk which will start reducing to a paste,
Add the black pepper powder and mix well
Stir and mix well while it reduces so that it neither burns nor sticks to the bottom of the pan.

You will get about 5 and half tablespoons of the Kaalan Kurrukku/paste from 1 Cup of Buttermilk. Scoop the paste from the pan and keep aside.

At this stage you have to check for the sourness of the paste; this would depend on the sourness of the buttermilk used*.

Add 2 tbsps of the reduced buttermilk paste/kurukku to the ground coconut paste  in the same pan and mix well*.
Cook  on medium low heat for 2 minutes and take off the heat.

Heat 1 tsp of coconut oil to a smoking point,
Temper mustard seeds, then broken red chillies and curry leaves,
Add a pinch of ground fenugreek seeds and pour immediately over the Kaalan.

*The amount of paste would depend on the sourness of the butttermilk. Add accordingly.